Ramen Setagaya

Japanese soup star making first play for U.S. market. Salt-pork bowls are homier than Ippudo’s, more authentic than Momofuku’s. Broth made fresh daily with clams, scallops, lemon peel, other random shit. Hearty and addictive. Taut noodles, tasty slabs of grilled meat. Tight shop with window counter, narrow bar along the open kitchen, major Tokyo feel. Flatscreens flash Japanese cooking shows. Separate izakaya in back, otherwise it’s all ramen all the time. Just like college.