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Pasta by the vat at this pastoral tomato saucer in the village of Belmont. Chicken by the flock. Nothing skimpy here. Veal scallopini zinged up with hot cherry peppers, half a rabbit grilled with rosemary and potatoes. Regulars order off the blackboard. Come with a plan: enlist surrogate bellies, make a donation to your local soup kitchen, prepare to eat antipasti sandwiches for the next two weeks. Peasant food don’t play around.
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