Smith's

Unfussy, elegant chicken and grits sits alongside beef tartare on a menu full of haute comfort food for new patrician overclass. Duck past puking NYU frosh into oasis of black leather, mirrored ceilings, crystal sconces—atmosphere's tops. Ingenious Pullman dining car layout, complete with bar in the back, actually makes crowd-control sense for once. Classy American-ness with pronounced Southern, old-school accent via venerable Harrison-Red Cat-Mermaid Inn bloodlines. Newly installed chef Doug Psaltis comes from fine French dining background to rock out on solid, smart food at reasonable price points. Skip Minetta, hit this place—less scene, more substance.