Editorial Review

Why do so many Seattle bar owners want to pretend the alcohol they're serving you is illegal? Tavern Law is another in the long parade of speakeasies. This one's got a massive upstairs loft you have to buzz your way into and an impressive menu full of fizzes and drops and even a drink dictionary. The main floor is full of upscale bar scenery (bookshelves, mahogony, lovingly placed objects of a certain age) but the space isn't big enough to feel cozy or sleek enough to feel hip. Carved rather awkwardly into the Trace apartment complex, the Law is a mishmash of half-ideas, executed shallowly. The location's great, but for eight to ten bucks a drink, you deserve better.