The Lever House Restaurant

Gilded, tripped-out spaceship canteen. Marc Newson's $5 million glam interior has mod 2001 feel, with slanting gold walls and beehivesque wine storage behind the bar. Pretty whacked out for this latitude. Seasonal greenmarket nouveau cuisine meticulously prepared yet unimposing. Feed on Bambi: venison loin with hon-shemeji mushrooms, celeriac-apple purée, and huckleberry sauce. Top chops and lamb racks, but entrées generally trumped by the appetizers and masterful pastries.