Editorial Review

Four large communal tables loom in a small, rectangular dining room, and you'll sit your ass down wherever the staff tells you to. Don't attempt to pick another group of seats; this is not the place to take your small-town parents or friends who can't handle slurping down a bowl of Udon (shrimp, coriander and sweet chili lime broth) elbow-to-elbow with a lonely Beardo trying to read some Eggers. Chef Bill Kim offers a 19-item menu that includes Asian squash and bacon dumplings, a porkbelly and pineapple rice, seasonal kimchi, and five large-portioned noodle bowls. There's usually a wait, so go for an early dinner if you want to avoid posting up near the bathrooms for a few.