Editorial Review

Having been kiwi-tini’d and speakeasy-cocktailed out of all sense of dignity, it’s a relief to see someone putting the great demon drink front and center again. In fact, the whiskey, rye, bourbon and scotch selections hit the triple digits here, and the cocktail list, divided into Prohibition (Manhattan, Old Fashioned) and Repeal (Village Idiot, Latin Quarter Club) is 100% peachy-pinky-fluffy-free. Super-hot Ecuadorian chef Jose Garces keeps it meaty here, with bison burgers, Vienna dogs and duck-fat fries. And with its tin ceilings and antique mirrors, the VW reinvents O.K. Corral chic. But patrons might want to ask before, um, parking their trusty steeds out front.