Going from the Kentucky Derby to the Preakness Stakes was depressing. At first, anyway. (See our video of the scene.) Baltimore, Maryland's Pimlico Race Track is a ratty, dog-eared venue, down-at-the-heels with the threadbare atmosphere of a gritty OTB. It's always been a no-frills track for the common man. In contrast, Louisville, Kentucky's Churchill Downs is more like a comfortable, prim and proper country club -- an equine Mecca steeped in majestic style. The Downs trumps Pimlico in style, celebrity buzz, and old-boy southern traditions with a generally well-heeled, fairly behaved crowd (except for the infield's Bud Light-and-vomit cache). Pimlico corners the market on permissive weirdness and casual debauchery with a shrugging acceptance of advanced age. After spending an hour in Pimlico's jockey room and prep paddocks (normally off-limits to media) meeting friendly track staff veterans, it was decided: Churchill Downs has an attractive starchy gloss, but Pimlico has soul.
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