Get your fusion on at this French-colonial-Asian joint with a warm, tropical interior. Lots of palm leaves and birds of paradise. One of the original fabulosity spots is still cool, minus some pretension and plus some uptowners. Gigantic ginger prawns, sole steamed in a banana leaf with coconut milk and lime, and buttery lemon tarts, served by smokin’ hot staff. Standout lychee martinis are deceptively smooth, but if you want to walk out in a straight line, best pace yourself. Keep a model scorecard.