When Momo opened in the late '90s, London was still shedding its reputation as a culinary wasteland, hurtling towards its new status as one of the stopovers on the 21st Century Foodie Grand Tour. Proprietor Mourad Mazouz followed with the absurdly trendy Sketch, which immediately became one of the pre-crash international yardsticks for measuring one's ability to effectively see and be seen.
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