As someone whose favorite dish is Trainwreck Fries (pickled jalapeño, buttermilk ranch, smoked bacon, and scallions, from Virgil’s Real Barbecue), I try to make up for bad fuel with good, choosing organic and local produce whenever I can. In the green versus conventional debate, for me it comes down to fresh food that doesn’t rack up frequent flier miles or need to wear a hazmat suit. (Supporting local and small agribusiness, the health of growers, and a happier planet notwithstanding.) What started off as a health thing is now just as much about taste. I find that many organic and conventional foods can be as different from each other as a symphony from a one-man band. New nuances of flavor appear in the most ordinary of ingredients. What gastronome wouldn’t want that?

One thing that’s up in these down times is consumption of wine, liquor, spirits, beer -- it’s all about the small pleasures. At bars and restaurants like Elixir in San Francisco and Counter here in New York City, a trend that’s going gangbusters is green cocktails. This includes a burgeoning crop of eco-liquors -- rum made from organically grown sugarcane, vodka made from organic rye -- as well as fresh ingredients like plump blackberries, tart lemons and limes, zesty basil, ripe pomegranate, and even lavender. In his new book Organic, Shaken and Stirred, Florida-based author Paul Abercrombie masterfully mixes the best of nature’s bounty with one hundred mouth-watering drink recipes you could (almost) argue are good for you. Of the handful of cocktail books I own, this is the first one I was truly inspired to mix something out of. In fact, I had a hard time deciding which of his creative concoctions to share. Strawberry and jalapeño margaritas? Purple basil gimlets? Lavender lemon drops? Green tea mojitos, anyone? Come Thanksgiving, I’ll definitely be mixing up that spicy Tahitian coffee, or the hot buttered maple rum.

For now, I opted for the Pom-aniac, a lively crowd-pleaser that’s easy to make with ingredients and liquors you probably already own (preferably organic, but there’s always next time). I think you’ll go crazy for this antioxidant-rich drink that’s sure to give you a boost -- in more ways than one. If any of the above drinks pique your interest, stop by Counter on Tuesday night to sample some of these clean green libations, mixed by the author himself. Fresh!

Pom-aniac 2 oz organic pomegranate juice 1 ½ oz organic vodka ½ oz freshly squeezed organic lemon juice ½ oz organic agave nectar Splash of Campari ½ oz maraschino liqueur or Cointreau Club soda or sparkling mineral water 1 or 2 thin rounds organic cucumber Organic lemon twist

Pour the pomegranate juice, vodka, lemon juice, agave nectar, Campari, and maraschino liqueur into an ice cube-filled cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds, then strain the mixture into an ice cube-filled glass. Top off with club soda and garnish with the cucumber round and lemon twist.