My local booze shop here in DC is a ripoff, but I didn't know just how bad they were until the other day. It's downstairs, which is dangerously convenient, but I have yet to request a delivery. If that day comes, and it may, it will mark a truly degenerate new low. Startling even for me. Anyway, they boost up their prices and sometimes even pad your bill if you aren't paying attention. Last night I noticed they rolled out their new push: Inaugural Champagne Special! Champagne or sparkling wine, I thought? As Americans, should we sip French Champagne or should we get jingo with it and stick to the red, white, and brut?

Thankfully, there are some decent choices from California and Washington. The Wall Street Journal gave a useful primer of U.S. bubbly under $50. But the critics complain that stateside fizz lacks character. "Overall, we found these widely available American sparklers pleasant enough," sniffs the Journal. "Still, too many seemed to strive only to be inoffensive, a low bar indeed. We wish more of their winemakers were willing to take some risks and try to make a truly world-class sparkler, a wine with pinpoint bubbles, great acidity, some nuttiness, integrated tastes, real depth and excitement in every pop. So while these will not soar with the oratory of the day, they are generally fine for a celebration and, in some cases, good values."

The presidential history of sparkling wine pretty much begins and ends with Nixon bringing Schramsberg bubbly on his 1972 visit to China. So, Schramsberg is out on principle. And forget Korbel because, well, it's Korbel. Go with Domaine Ste. Michelle -- sexy price tag, great finish. Always pops my cork.