There's something about staying on the Bund that strips away the allure of a true Shanghai experience. Sure, the Bund is one of the major attractions in the city (if not the most popular), so it's almost ideal to book rooms here, but that's exactly what all the other Westerners are doing. Deciding I didn't want to be grouped into a tourist hot zone, I opted to be amongst the locals at the Langham Yangtze hotel.

Langham Yangtze is in the city center on a quiet street, but is conveniently located close to other top attractions. It's a small, historic boutique hotel—there are only 96 rooms—and the only five-star hotel that embraces Art Deco architecture (a curiosity, considering Shanghai has the most Art Deco buildings in the world). I was impressed with Langham's take of the Golden Age of China. Built in 1934, the hotel reopened last year with a major renovation. Original art deco patterns and motifs are well-preserved and blended with a modern touch. Expect bold geometric shapes, sharp lines, and symmetric patterns. Old Shanghai antiques and vintage pieces like handbags, fur coats, and pipes adorn the walls.

As soon as I entered the posh hallway, I was greeted by the scent of wild ginger and I loved the lobby's central spiral staircase, seemingly highlighted by the glass ceiling mural. My room on the third floor was elegantly appointed with contemporary furnishings that brought the 1930s to mind. Most of the rooms include a private terrace (balconies are a rarity in Shanghai) that looked out into People's Square.

The staff was completely streamlined—the concierge made several calls to my airline for date changes—and the female staff wore adorable, traditional silk Chinese dresses in the lobby. The T'ang Court restaurant served innovative Chinese dishes with engaging presentation, and the Chuan Spa was charming, with fish bowls dotting the lounge. In a city of 25 million people, Langham Yangze, celebrating its 85th anniversary next year, is a sanctuary.