By Ethan Wolff

Le Lupanar takes its name from French slang for “brothel”, but the new L.E.S. space isn’t exactly a Turkish cathouse. Lines are spare. There are no pillows or settees. “Brothel” is printed on the business cards, though there’s no smuttiness there either. Just clean design and an L-shaped corporate logo. The logo reappears on the black napkins, which look lifted from the Baltimore Ravens commissary. You get the feeling this place is thoughtful. They’re trying. A couple of weeks in, though, the disparities have yet to fully coalesce.

The neighborhood could stand a haute French place. Le Père Pinard is festive enough, although no great shakes. lelupanarnyc.com 212-533-0161 Lower East Side
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