What: Fire-Roasted Garlic Chicken Where: Locanda Verde, Chef Andrew Carmellini's casual, family-style Italian trattoria at The Greenwich Hotel. Ideal meal: When you're craving large portions at a rustic, neighborhood-friendly joint, and you've planned ahead (reservations a must for dinner). Because: Any discerning food-lover will agree that chicken's a tough one to get just right. Carmellini has perfected the process by preparing his in the restaurant's wood-burning oven (formerly used for pizzas) and adding an understated portion of mushrooms, roasted peppers, and carrots to enhance (without overwhelming) the ample flavor dripping out of the crispy outer skin. Tastes like: Moist and simple, chicken done right. Bottom line: Available on the lunch and brunch menus for $19 and prepared for two at dinner for $21 a person. Sharing is encouraged, and it's pretty close to impossible to leave this place hungry. Especially after tackling the dessert menu.