BlackBook Magazine

66 was probably doomed the minute AA Gill mercilessly and hilariously lacerated it in Vanity Fair. And really, did anyone need poncey Chinese cuisine? (It could surely have only lead us down the dangerous path to, like, haute latkes or something.) Jet-setting superstar chef Jean Georges Vongerichten, never one to be stubbornly high-concept when something simpler will do, has now stripped away those most archly glamorous and sex-oozing elements of Richard Meier’s interiors (au revoir, prosperous times!) in favor of decidedly more subdued sophistication.

Those who insist they enjoy throwing huge dinner parties are also those who insist hard work is its own reward. But we know better. After a tough day slogging it out on the ruthless battlefields of New York business, having someone else do all the work for you seems like so much better a reward. And now your own little team of epicurean artistes awaits, for when just another special occasion dinner at Montrachet simply won’t do. At Brian Ghaw’s charming little Savoy Bakery up on 110th Street, he, executive chef Jesse Schenker, and pastry chef Christina Lee enthusiastically disassemble the space a couple of nights a week and turn it into Recette -- an elegant and utterly singular private dining experience.

Though it's anyone’s guess how many amidst the flesh-baring Hamptons throngs would even dare risk a flab hangover by gorging on the tasty slabs of Wagyu beef that Kobe Club is famous for, it’s hard to imagine a more scorching scene this summer. Restaurant master-of-the-universe Jeffrey Chodorow brings his quasi-samurai-themed temple of excess to Kobe Beach Club in the former Flirt space, which is now white-tiled, dramatically sky-lit, and complete with those signature hanging swords that so exhilaratingly threaten to drop down to slice and dice a host of ephemeral celebs. The restaurant shares terra firma and a, um, helicopter pad with glammy nightclub Lily Pond, so the fabulosity with hover incessantly at near lethal levels. Meaty!

Just a girl from the Provinces, Helene Darroze did a spell in Monte Carlo under Mssr. Ducasse himself, then proceeded to charm her way into the Parisian-chef boys club with her stylish eponymous restaurant in the 6th. Now the newly legendary culinary wizard takes on London, which is, bizarrely, the most competitive food city on the planet at the moment. She’ll get a good head start in taking those Gordons and Jamies and Fergus’s (more boys, of course) by taking over the restaurant at the recently chic’d up Connaught Hotel -- still basking in the glittering glow of a glorious $70 million makeover.

Who says the French surrender too easily? Le big shot chef Alain Ducasse, for one, is a Gaul with gall. After his eponymous and debut New York restaurant finally raised the white flag in 2007, he quickly staged another invasion, with his universally feted and palpably less vainglorious new Adour at the St. Regis. On April 21, he further ratchets down the snoot factor with Benoit, an outpost of his decidedly more casual bistros in Paris and Tokyo. In the space that once held La Cote Basque (the 1960s society scene for lunching ladies, which legendarily hastened the downfall of one Mr. Capote), the new restaurant opts to recreate the resplendent aesthetic glories of the Belle Epoque, with engraved glass, antique posters and red velvet banquettes—as well as offering a menu of lusty French classics. Unfortunate phonetic double entendre aside, this one looks like une certaine victoire pour M. Ducasse.

Originally hailing from Washington DC, the Five Guys burger chain has established several footholds in New York. One location opened stealthily in the West Village and has already carved out a loyal clientele. Says one: “It’s just ... great. Fat burgers with toppings like jalapenos and BBQ sauce. Hand cut fries that are right off the Jersey boardwalk. Worth a pop in if you live in the nabe. It’s self-service, takeout, not a restaurant. They only make them well done, which is the only setback. I like rare. But there is flavor and grease in that there meat.”

Formerly Theresa’s Hair Salon, the distinctive triangular building at 18 Bedford Avenue (and Lorimer Street, across from McCarren Park) was (is?) recently on the market for $2.6 million. New York magazine noted back in November that Dumont bartender/waiter Jud Longell and a “silent partner” had hired designer John McCormick to trick out a new bistro at the location—the vibe somewhere between “sunken transport ferry” and “English butcher shop.” Progress may be observed in the Flickr photo at left, taken in February. Apparently Longell is still talking the place up, as he related to a BlackBook operative that the silent partner is in fact a “well-known celebrity.” He refused to spill details when pressed, though he did admit that the new restaurant would be “similar to Dumont.” Though the resto is planned to open with only the small front space, they hope to expand into the adjacent “old man bar” at the first opportunity. Developing.

The frenzy over reservations at newbie Momofuku Ko has finally borne peachy little fruit. The online-only rezz system is open for business at reservations.momofuku.com. Good luck scoring one without early morning vigilance, however. Scalping the precious reservations has become a cottage industry for some—so much so that the Momofuku Ko website requires you to enter credit card info to make any reservation, and all diners must show ID upon arrival to make sure the names match. Eater has all you could ever want to know and more.

In Los Angeles, check out new restaurant profiles for Nobu Los Angeles (another outpost of the Matsuhisa empire), Urth Caffe Beverly Hills (reliable lunchables), and Katsuya Hollywood (LA’s second high-end sushi temple by that name). See full restaurant listings online in our Los Angeles guide.

In New York, check out new restaurant profiles for Lomito ("rustic Italian Argentinean") and Eletarria ("Nouveau American” by way of “Kentucky and India,” initially previewed in First Word). See full restaurant listings online in our New York guide.