When Raf Simons left his post at Jil Sander back in February, the fashion world wondered if it was the end of an era or the start of something great. Although the designer’s signature structural aesthetic would be missed at Sander, speculations swirled as to whether he was heading to Dior, which would be a thrilling turn for the iconic French fashion house. The appointment was confirmed in April and since then everyone has been waiting with baited breath for the new artistic director’s debut haute couture collection, which is happening in just a few days. But first, Simons needs to do Simons.
For the designer’s namesake line, Simons crafted a collection of garments that represented his past, present and future. His bold salute to the trio of trends currently infiltrating both men’s and women’s racks—androgyny, sportswear and retro—didn’t go unnoticed, as he cleverly punctuated Sander-esq tailored suits with short shorts, sneakers and hints of grunge.
Art also plays a part in Simons’ spring, thanks to pops of sherbet, wallpaper-friendly florals and artsy tees designed by LA-based artist Brian Calvin. An additional nod to womenswear came in the form of front slits featured on the aforemented short shorts, balanced by masculine blazers and crisp white top-buttoned shirts with oversized collars.
If this is a taste of what we can expect from Simons at Dior, the future looks bright.