Executive chef Bill Peet’s cooking at Aretsky’s Patroon shows off what 36 years of kitchen experience can do for a person. Peet has worked at several New York legends, including Lutèce, Asia de Cuba, and 44 at the Royalton. At Patroon, he’s serving a refined American table, with some French influences layered in. The short rib recipe below exemplifies his approach. The main ingredients -- carrot, onion, garlic, beer -- are anything but exotic, but the resulting flavors are totally sophisticated. Removing the bones and tying the meat takes the presentation up several notches. Short ribs are huge right now, and it’s not hard to figure out why, given their superior balance of tender, meaty, and fatty. As the weather turns, it’s hard to picture a comfort food dish that would impress dinner guests more.
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