Last night in Florence, something spectacular happened. At 9pm I boarded a bus that drove through the snaking streets in the hills above the city to the magnificent Villa Grand Petraia, where the boys from Proenza Schouler -- Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez -- staged a fashion-meets-art-world spectacular. The event was held to debut their 2010 pre-spring collection and to launch the new issue of A Magazine the designers guest-edited. And while their traditional fashion shows held in New York every season may be the hottest tickets in town, the duo opted to present their collection with a multimedia extravaganza as they took to the international stage for the first time. Working in conjunction with Pitti Immagine (the organization responsible for Florence's fashionable trade fair that takes place twice a year) and with Art Production Fund, the designers invited three of their favorite artists to present their collection using various mediums.

Leave it to Thom Browne -- the Brit designer synonymous with making high waders cool -- to keep the fashion industry on its toes, even amid arduous economic times. At the menswear fair in Florence this week, Browne showcased a pared-down collection of just two looks in a presentation that was nothing short of genius. Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune called it "simply perfect."

Only open a few days, Il Santino (Via S. Spirito, 60/R, +39 055 2302820‎) is drawing crowds that spill out into the street -- not too difficult really, considering the capacity is about 40. As an apertivo bar, this is a good spot for wine, cheese, and of course prosciutto before catching your 8:30 dinner reservations down the street.

Filippo runs Le Baccante Tours, pretty much the finest custom tours in Italy. He’s a wine fanatic -- easy to see if you get him started on the topic, as his dark eyes get wide, and he starts emphasizing his words with fist pounds on the table. He’s a portable concierge, knowing exactly who to call if you want to stay in a private villa for a month, sample the best aperitivo in Milan, hit the hottest clubs in Turin, or the imbibe the newest wine bar in Florence. Le Baccante caters to a variety of interests: shopping, eating, partying ... whatever your pleasure, he knows how to feed it. He’s also supremely connected; he’s hosted private dinners in Salvatore Feragammo’s home, and can get you into the kitchen of any restaurant you care to name. You want this guy on speed dial if you’re in Italy.

Point of Origin: Florence, Italy. He spent five years working in London (hence his charming British English accent) and one year studying in Holland, which he touts as “the year of my life” -- perhaps due to the fact that 85% of the students were “beautiful women.”

Lounge and bar Serendepico's basement level is decked out in alternating patterns of red and zebra, pulsating with loud vibrations of the in-house DJ. Loungers nod in time with the music, and groups of Italian men have been known to belt out the lyrics to remixes of 90s R&B. The house specialty is a fruity concoction meant to go straight to your head. Make one of your own and turn the music up.

Alberto D'Agostino's Serendepico Specialty
• 4 shots Absolut Pear
• 1 kiwi, crushed
• 2 tablespoons sugar cane
• 1/2 lime
• juice of a green apple
Shake; serve over crushed ice. €10.

The Italians love wine so much that they've started adding it to their martinis. Here's the recipe for the brand new Brunello Martini from the Westin Excelsior in Florence.

• 1 oz. Brunello reduction
• 2 1/2 oz. vodka
• 1/2 oz. dry vermouth
Shake. Serve in chilled martini glass. €8.

Boasting a ballroom and boutique suites, Florence's Grand Hotel is indeed grandiose, Baroque even. As a foil to the historical bells and whistles in this lovely old hotel, In Canto (translation: "In Song"), the in-house restaurant serves straight-up Tuscan fare with a twist of modern. The open kitchen faces the dining room -- all the better to see the be-hatted chefs at work. The best dish on the menu is the grass-fed beef tagliate, served medium-rare on a slabs of granite and garnished with a blow-worthy line of crushed salt crystals and a side of rosemary-roasted white beans.

So new it doesn’t have a name yet, the Westin Excelsior in Florence plans to open rooftop dining atop the six-story hotel in March 2009. Progress has been delayed several times due to the historical nature of the building height restrictions in the zoning around the hotel. Once completed, the vibe will be elegant al fresco, with walls of windows, patio seating, and unrestricted views of the Duomo. In addition, the restaurant will be equipped with a private lounge for before- and after-dinner conversation.

Photo of the day from travel editor Bryce Longton: lobby of the Grand Hotel, Florence.

Greetings from Italy -- I'm here for a week getting the lowdown on the latest restaurants, scoping out the hippest shopping outposts, and catching up on what's going down after dark. First up is Florence, then Turin, and finally Milan. In Florence, I'll be meeting up with Filippo Bartolotta of Le Baccanti Tours, the go-to guy for behind-the-scenes Firenze. Specializing in food, wine, and after-dark tours, Filippo promises to give me the proverbial keys to the city (or at least an aperitivo or two). Also in Florence, I'll be checking out the Grand Hotel and brand-new Westin Excelsior. In Turin, I'll plunge into the burgeoning nightlife scene, described both as fraught with "underground situations" as well as "magical." We'll see. Once in Milan, I'll run the gamut of nightlife and restaurants -- Magazzini Generali, Nobu, Serendepico, and the Dolce & Gabbana restaurant literally made out of gold. Stay tuned.