Perhaps once a decade, an unconventionally beautiful (read: not thin) artist exerts such an irresistible magnetism as to blow the deadbolts off of the fashion world and disrupt production of the beauty myth. In the early 1990s, the comely voluptuousness of celebrity makeup artist Sharon “Mama Makeup” Gault inspired designers to push her from backstage to the catwalk. The immortal look of club icon Leigh Bowery—with his form-malforming, anthropoid Jayne Mansfield-in-sequined-ski- mask garments—made such a deep impression on fashion that his unlikely influence is still occasionally seen in Missy Elliot videos, and on the runways of Gareth Pugh.