"Well, well, well. You must be Mr. Julian Schnabel." It's a confident statement, made by a taxi driver in Boston. And it belies the fact that I'm, say, 100 pounds and 30 years short of the pajama man. "I'm Mr. Julian Schnabel," bellows an assertive larynx from behind me. And he's right. Schnabel is with one of his daughters and rock legend Lou Reed, and it's slightly odd to see this slice of New York royalty clamoring for a cab in Massachusetts. In a way, though, it sets the tone for the weekend I went sailing with Salma Hayek.